French Aperitif Inspired by a Forbidden Spirit

How a Banned Spirit Gave Rise to France’s Iconic Pastis

Ever since absinthe was banned in 1915 over fears that it led to insanity, pastis has risen to become France’s quintessential aperitif. This transformation was not merely the result of a change in legal status but a cultural shift that embedded pastis deeply into the French way of life. Apéro, or aperitif hour, is a beloved tradition across the country, a time of day when friends and family gather to unwind with a drink before dinner. While the choice of aperitif varies by region—cassis-scented kir in Burgundy, beer near the Belgian border, or cider in Normandy—pastis is the undisputed favorite across the nation. Sales of pastis account for one-fifth of all spirits sold in France, making it one of the country’s most widely consumed alcoholic beverages.

However, pastis did not gain its popularity overnight. Its rise can be traced back to the prohibition of absinthe, a potent, anise-flavored spirit that had gained notoriety in the 19th century. During the phylloxera epidemic that devastated France’s vineyards, absinthe emerged as a widely consumed alternative to wine. It was especially popular among artists and writers, with figures like Vincent van Gogh, Edgar Degas, and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec famously indulging in the so-called “Green Fairy.” However, absinthe’s reputation suffered due to allegations that it caused hallucinations, madness, and even violent behavior. Public concern reached a peak in the early 20th century, leading to its nationwide ban in 1915.

The prohibition of absinthe left a void in the French aperitif culture. Particularly for those who enjoyed anise-flavored spirits. This gap was quickly filled by pastis. A milder, lower-alcohol alternative that retained the aniseed aroma but lacked the controversial effects attributed to absinthe. Unlike absinthe, which was distilled and had a high alcohol content of up to 75% ABV, pastis is a macerated spirit. That is slightly sweeter and contains around 40-45% alcohol. This crucial difference made pastis more socially acceptable and allowed it to flourish.

One man, in particular, was instrumental in cementing pastis as France’s signature aperitif: Paul Ricard. A young entrepreneur from Marseille, Ricard recognized the opportunity to market anise-flavored spirits to the masses. In 1932, he launched his own brand of pastis, which he named after the Provençal word pastisson, meaning “mixture.” Ricard was not only a savvy businessman but also a master of branding. He personally traveled across France, visiting bistros and cafes to promote his drink, famously saying, “Make a friend a day.” His efforts paid off, and Ricard quickly became the most recognizable pastis brand.

Ricard’s success was bolstered by his innovative marketing strategies. He created eye-catching posters featuring sunny Marseille landscapes, reinforcing the image of pastis as a drink associated with relaxation and leisure. He also produced branded glasses, pitchers, ashtrays, and even hats, many of which were distributed during the Tour de France in 1948. These promotional items became collectibles, further embedding pastis into French popular culture.

Despite the rise of modern mixology, pastis remains one of the few spirits in France that is almost exclusively consumed in its traditional form. While some bartenders experiment with pastis-based cocktails, such as combining it with gin, lemon juice, and herbal syrups, the vast majority of French drinkers prefer it simply diluted with water and served over ice. The ritual of preparing pastis is part of its charm—adding water transforms the clear spirit into a cloudy, milky-yellow hue, a process known as the ouzo effect. This transformation is not only visually appealing but also enhances the drink’s smooth, refreshing taste.

Unlike absinthe, which required a special perforated spoon and a slow drip of water over a sugar cube, pastis is straightforward and easy to prepare, making it an accessible choice for drinkers of all backgrounds. This simplicity has contributed to its enduring popularity. Whether enjoyed in a bustling Parisian café, a rustic countryside tavern, or a seaside bar in Marseille, pastis embodies the essence of French conviviality.

Today, Ricard remains the dominant pastis brand, despite competition from other producers such as Henri Bardouin and Distillerie de la Plaine. In 1975, he merged with its former rival Pernod, further consolidating its market position. In 2022, Paul was not just the most popular pastis brand in France—it was the best-selling product in French hypermarkets, outselling staples like mineral water, Coca-Cola, and even Nutella. In the weeks leading up to Christmas 2024, his sales even surpassed those of Champagne, highlighting its status as a year-round favorite.

The cultural significance of pastis extends beyond its taste or its role as an aperitif. It is a drink that symbolizes relaxation, friendship, and the Mediterranean way of life. For many French people, pastis is more than just a beverage; it is a tradition, a ritual, and a symbol of togetherness. Whether enjoyed on a sun-drenched terrace in Marseille or at a lively family gathering, pastis continues to hold a special place in the hearts—and glasses—of the French people.